The latest Coffee news from Bella Barista
Please ignore any old order emails resent today 22nd December 2016. You wont be charged and the order will not be duplicated and sent again. We have a server glitch, that has sent them by mistake.
1. Remove chrome plug from front of knob and remove circlip and washer. Unscrew the Black knob anti-clockwise to remove completely.
2. Using a spanner remove the valve rod
assembly by turning anti-clockside and the
rod will come away.
3. Slide the valve rod from housing and
replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.
One of the most common causes of a Eureka Mignon to stop functioning is a blockage. This grinder can produce a very fine grind and because the access hole is particularly small, the ground coffee can build up and cause a blockage from the point between the burrs and the spout. If your grinder has stopped working, follow this procedure:-
- Turn your grind setting dial towards the coarse setting as far as you can go and start grinding, this may release the blockage, if not try:-
- Unplug your grinder and remove the plug from the socket, using a long thin instrument like a skewer or chop stick push it up the spout and see if this releases the blockage. If not, try:-
- Remove the hopper (making sure you slide the stopper accross to stop and beans from escaping) Unscrew the three screws on the top plate.
- The top burr is attached to the top plate, put this to one side and take a look at the bottom burrs.
- Pay particular attention to the exit hole situated on the inside of the grinder adjacent to the spout, look to see if this is blocked and clean with a brush. It helps to hold the grinder upside down and shake to remove any loose coffee granules.
- Re-attach the top plate and secure the three screws in place.
4mm Allen Key
This is a relatively straightforward swap of the thermo block and should take no longer than 30 minutes if you follow this photo guide in order.
Remove the four Phillips screws from the top of the machine near the cup guard and pivot the top cover out of the way. Just be careful when removing the top cover as there are wires attached to the mains IEC female plug on the rear of the machine.
This is just for reference of the wiring configuration. You can mark and number the terminals which have to be removed. You have to unclip all of the spade connectors from the two limit stats and also the two terminals from the elements. Unscrew the earth wire. The image below illustrates using the 14mm spanner (solenoid side) and the 17mm spanner (Thermo block side). Hold the solenoid in place and using the 17mm socked undo the nut turning anti clockwise. Using the 4mm Allen key remove the two bolts holding the thermo block in place.
Unscrew the two Philips screws holding the steam arm in place.
Carefully remove the thermo block and the steam arm complete. See image below. The reason for removing the steam arm is that it is much easier to undo when removed from the machine. Using the adjustable spanner hold the 90 degree elbow and using the 17mm spanner undo the compression fitting and swap the steam arm on to the new thermo block.
The new thermo block will need an existing hole threading with an M4x0.7 tap for the limit stat. The other limit stat will already have a hole threaded. Put the two limit stats back in place.
Carefully thread the new thermo block in place and using the 4mm Allen keys screw in to place and re connect all of the wires back on to the correct terminals. Reconnect the solenoid compression joint on to the solenoid whilst using the 14mm spanner to hold the solenoid in place and the 17mm spanner to tighten the nut. Careful never to over tighten compression joints as too much force can make them crack. Re connect the earth cable. Once everything is back in place put the top cover back in place and switch the machine on and check for any hisses or leaks. If not situate the top cover back in place and the four Phillips screws on the top cover. All Done!!!
I see a lot of discussion on forums about pre-infusion on the E61 and the E61 middle position. This tends to come up on a regular basis and usually receives conflicting and confusing responses. I think it's time to examine this area a little and try to clear up some of the confusion.
Firstly, the E61 has built in pre-infusion, in the lower chamber of the group there is a pre-infusion chamber and while this fills the pressure to the coffee puck is lower measured with a pressure measuring portafilter. This chamber is sealed with a weak spring seal that lets by at around 4 bar. The chamber fills very quickly a matter of a few seconds for a rotary and a little longer for a vibration pump. The idea of this is to prevent the shock of 9 bar water hitting the coffee puck in the portafilter and allow a more gradual ramp up of pressure. this is by design, this is correct and it works well.
The "Middle Position" pre-infusion is really opening the top brew valve before the pump runs and wetting the puck.
- line pressure water in the case of a plumbed in machine (should be 2 bar if you have regulated pressure correctly)
- * or passive flow from the hot water expanding out of the HX unit in a non plumbed machine (hot dribble). I personally don't believe either is correct because of the way that these machines function.
Then there is the passive dribble from the twin boilers brew boiler (not the same problem as in the first 2 scenarios, but still not correct). This puck wetting has advocates, I am not one of them and have not tasted any significant shot difference after setting up various machines to do this "puck wetting".
The middle position on an E61 will only let line pressure water through when the top brew valve is open and the pump is not engaged….this is purely a function of how far the micro-switch that turns on the pump protrudes through the front fascia, as this directly impacts how soon the lever cam is able to actuate it during movement of the lever. If the micro-switch pokes out a long way, then the pump will engage slightly before the top brew valve opens, hence . Or the reverse with the switch set too far in and the group opens before the pump engages, then it's possible to carefully raise the lever to a specific point where line pressure water flows through the group but the pump does not run. A typical brew switch is shown below, both the front and the back (inside the case), adjustment is via the two nuts either side of the front fascia panel.
In the Goldilocks scenario…."it's just right" when the pump runs almost exactly as the group opens. This is how most manufacturers set it up and by design they are not expecting anyone to do any passive "puck wetting", which is why it's never covered in the instructions.
The E61 that may be the exception to the rule with respect of built in pre-infusion are some automatic solenoid operated E61's which sacrifice the preinfusion chamber for the electrically operated group exhaust solenoid and it's often a reason why some of the semi automatic machines might be best avoided. Some other non E61 machines simulate the E61 preinfusion using a separate expansion chamber in the brew circuit e.g. La Spaziale Vivaldi S1 and Mini Vivaldi.
Grinder S-Automatik 64 Instructions for cleaning of the coffee chute after it has become clogged up with coffee grounds
In case the coffee chute of your grinder has become clogged due to choosing too fine of a grind setting (all dependable on temperature, humidity, oiliness of the coffee etc.), please proceed as follows in order to solve the problem:
Firstly switch the grinder off, switch in "off“ position and disconnect from the mains.
Insert a suitable tool into the grounds chute of the grinder (we used a teaspoon) and entirely clean out the grounds which have clogged the chute. The grounds may have collected in the corners of the chute as well and they should also be cleaned out.
Make a note of the current grind setting on the number scale. Increase the grind setting by one number so the remaining beans can be ground through.
Plug the power chord of the grinder back in and turn on the grinder, switch is in the "on“ position.
Start the grinding process as usual by activating the grind switch. The remaining coffee grounds should now come out of the chute easily. Manually clean the entire chute with a suitable tool again.
Activate the grind switch until no further grounds come out. If need be, manually clean the chute again
Open the slide bar of the bean hopper.
While grinding, choose a finer grind setting, about on-half digit on the scale. A coarser grind can be compensated by using more ground coffee or by tamping harder.
Calibrate the grind setting and grind time as needed.
Please contact our service team in case the above instructions have not assisted in alleviating the problem. If you have any questions please email email@example.com